From San Cristobal, my my incipient anarchist leanings prompt me to make a pilgrimage to one of the local Zapatista caracoles to pay homage to a living example of autonomous self-government.
The Zapatista revolutionary movement rose to prominence in the 90s when it declared war on the Mexican State and the Zapatista Army of National Liberation [...]
The sun has already dissolved into the hazy humid air and vanished in a red haze below the horizon. The air is still, hot and damp. Three men standing by a sleek black car with darkly tinted windows don’t initially inspire confidence in me or predispose me to stop but one [...]
Also tagged mexico, on the highwayMexico City is the second biggest in the world and it seems like I could probably stay here for a very long time before it started to make much sense to me. However, living previously in Sao Paulo, the third biggest city in the world, for three and a half years has prepared me for [...]
Also tagged a place to stay, city life, df, friends, hospitality, mexicoThe trip from San Miguel to Queretaro is, in principal, an easy afternoon’s ride and I set off around midday, taking a quiet paved road to Jalpa, an almost non-existent village, with a nonetheless extremely impressive church.
On the other side of Jalpa, the road turns to cobbles – visually charming but extremely wearing for cyclists [...]
What I love about touring on a bike without a fixed plan is a life of constant contrast. Having started the day waking in my tent in the middle of field, I arrive in San Miguel de Allende in the afternoon of my birthday, with little idea of where I am – I am here [...]
Also tagged hospitality, mexicoOn the second rainy day in Zacatecas, I go, at the urging of Ernesto, the manager of the Hostel Villa Coloniel, to a rodeo. My feelings about the venture are very mixed.
The first thing I discover is that arriving on time in Mexico is not necessarily a good idea.
The rodeo is a university event and [...]
Since our fortuitous meeting with Abraham in Tepehuanes, we have found ourselves hooked up with the Mexican biking community. Cocono Salvajes (Wild Turkeys) are one of Santiago’s three mountain bike groups and they have taken us decidedly under their generous wings.
On Sunday morning we set off with about twenty-five Cocono riders on a on a [...]
In Tepehuanes, without warning, the boys suddenly develop a fascination for cowboys hats. I have been talking about buying a cowboy hat, for my sister, ever since I entered Mexico and none of my travelling companions showed the slightest interest. Now, with the bikes packed and ready to go the guys are irresistibly drawn by [...]
Also tagged dirtbag gang, food, mexicoLeaving Recowata, Jeff and Jason and I head in opposite directions. The boys make their way back to Creel while I set off towards Urique, 160 kilometres away. I camp alone, for the first time in over a month, near the highway and, in the morning, set off into a cold grey day. The weather [...]
Also tagged mexico, mountains, snow and ice, winterWe ride out of Hachita in the late afternoon knowing this will be our last night in the USA. The road runs straight to Mexico and is heavily patrolled by US border guards. The terrain is flat, with distant mountains, colonies of yuccas are the dominant vegetation.
We ride until dusk and set up camp in [...]