As soon as we reach the highway, after twelve miles of dirt road, we are forced to contemplate the frightening prospect of sharing a narrow highway, with no shoulder, with giant trucks. The constant stream of huge rigs thundering by is terrifying.
We spy a roadside cafe in the distance and retreat indoors to gather courage.
Fortified [...]
In Yosemite Valley I heard rumours of hot springs around Mammoth Lake and so I quizz Doris and John for further information. The critical clue I already have at my disposal is a green church marking the turn off on the highway. John, however is able to furnish much more specific directions and a reasonable [...]
Also tagged california, desert, hot springs, magic, wind, winterI was planning to ride to a state park in Brookings just north of the California state line for the ease and convenience of the hiker/biker camp but I have mixed feelings about it. The last two nights I have camped in hiker/biker camps, first at Cape Argo and then at Humbug Mountain, with the [...]
Also tagged a place to stay, oregon, pacific ocean, wild placesOn Monday morning, I ride out of Seattle, thankfully with considerably less trouble than I had riding into the city, to catch another ferry, this time from Edmonds to Kingston on the Washington Peninsula.
On the peninsula, the small towns I pass through are reminiscent of scenes from Twin Peaks and I find it slightly disturbing. [...]
The fourteen hour ferry ride from Prince Rupert to Port Hardy passes uneventfully enough. There are occasional whale sightings pointed out by the ship’s watch; humpbacks puff water vapour, a distant pod of orca put on an acrobatic display, a pair of porpoises swim alongside the boat – but I spend most of the time [...]
Also tagged a place to stay, canada, first nation, pacific oceanEventually, I drag myself away from the revitalising waters of the springs and go back to my bike which I have left hidden in the bushes on the roadway.
I have been tarrying the last few days, in Stewart and here in the Nisga’a valley, and I feel the need, now, to cover some miles. I [...]
I continue on my way down the valley crossing a deep fast flowing bright green river.
As the shadows lengthen, a sign indicating the Dragonfly Provincial Campground opportunely appears and I find myself on the shore of a narrow lake. Low mountains lie opposite, higher snow-covered mountains to one end of the lake and open sky [...]
Before I leave Kinaskan Lake, I ask the fisherman camped at the next site for some line. I bought a couple of lures in Dease Lake inspired by my tantalising near success at Cottonwood River, which was a fishing experience inspiring and frustrating in equal measure. I want to repeat my the attempt to catch [...]
Also tagged a place to stay, berries, canada, cassiar highway, fish, on the highway, wildfoodRestored by my pancake breakfast, I cycle another 20 kilometres or so and quickly come to the Kinaskan Lake Provincial Park. The last few camps have been hurried, rain-soaked affairs and I want to spread out and get my gear in order, so I pull in.
It is early in the day and I have my [...]
Finally I get on the road and see the boy that dropped by my camp last night and we agree to ride together for a while. He is good company, happy to stop and explore, to pick berries. We talk all day about our trips, the people we have met, adventures and the road. Our [...]
Also tagged a place to stay, berries, canada, cassiar highway, mountains, people, rain, wildfood