a thousand turns

There’s no doubt I’ve been riding hills – the descent into Santa Rosa was hair-raising at times – but in Los Nevados National Park, where I want to head next, I am going to encounter real mountains. Los Nevados National Park encompasses the highest area of the Central Cordillera in Colombia with a number of mountain peaks of over 5000 metres. Unfotunately, there is a rumour going around that the park is currently closed to visitors and it is not entirely clear whether this is due to volcanic activity or, alternatively, because of administrative problems.

The reason I am in Santa Rosa is that it is on the edge of the park but it is not the most popular entry point so I might just be able to sneak on into the park without encountering any major obstacles. The only serious hitch is that my maps, which are pretty detailed ones, acquired at the Instituto Geographico Augustin Codazzi, are mysteriously blankish around the area of the park. I’ve been told there is a way into the park from Santa Rosa but I don’t know exactly where it is and it’s certainly not indicated on my maps.

Santa Rosa is another coffee town. Less chintzy and pretty than Jardin and the other coffee towns of Antioquia its streets...

... are filled with no nonsense...

... but nonetheless lovingly maintained jeeps.

And senores in hats, of course.

...

I’m wandering the streets of Santa Rosa mulling over the problem of how to find my way into Los Nevados when I see a hand written sign in a shop window advertising a local mountain bike club outing. There is a contact name and mobile number. Problem solved.

Hector and his wife and daughter. Hector organises mountain bike excursions for the local mountain bike club once or twice a month. When I explain where I want to go he provides me with a list of place names, complete with suggested camping sites.