The Yucatan Peninsula has almost no rivers – instead its water is found underground in a multitude of cenotes.

Cenotes are one of the Yucatan Peninsula's major tourist attractions. The entrance to this one is surrounded by vendors selling souvenirs, towels and snacks - the kind of scene that fills me with despair...

Taking care of myself, I find this deserted cenote, off the tourist circuit, which provides a perfect camp site. I swim at dusk with an owl hunting for bats overhead and then eat sitting at the top of the rock wall surrounded by fire-flies flashing on and off, illuminating the forest.

... tourists visit three cenotes along a narrow gauge railway in horse-drawn carts. After some negotiation I am permitted to ride alongside the track to visit the cenotes myself.








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