At dawn I wake and set off across the plains. There is nothing to suggest that the Grand Canyon lies barely a mile to the north of where I ride. I spend the day struggling over rocky ranch tracks with nothing else to do but admire the sky. An inland sky is totally different to a coastal sky: the quality of the light is different, more lucid; the blues are sweeter, more varied.

The sign indicating the road to Highway 64 sits well past the junction with the tarmac road. It is only 44 miles to the highway and I am hoping to be there before dark.

The rocky road runs straight across the plain. There is not a hint that the Grand Canyon lies a mile to the north.







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